Sunday, 18 February 2024

Much Ado About Kurta Pyjama

 "Sacrilege!", Kurta Pyjama(KP) in Officers Mess, no way.... that is the common refrain these days. We the true inheritors of the British legacy, dyed in the wool Angrez  can't digest this change in dress, which, as has been clarified is just another dress which may be permitted and not that the Shirts and Trousers have been jettisoned altogether. As though the Jodhpurs or the Bandh Gala were not enough, now this poor cousin has dared to step into the hallowed premises of the ultimate vestige of legacy of the Raj. For the hard core Lounge Suits/Combination attired suited booted sahibs, Kurta Pyjama was always just night wear, a sleeping suit nothing more than that. Dressed in Kurta Pyjamas, the officers would be slovenly, unkempt and obviously un-officer like, is how the narrative on social media has been flooded. By and large the majority view is that this decolonisation bit is being stretched too far, as long as it was restricted to the ‘matters military’ it was still ok, though even that was with a pinch of salt, but here this one seems to be an attack at the very core of our officer-hood. First the ranks cease to be "Petty", now we have to bear this ignominy on the core of our very being. As though it is the dress which makes us what we are, else we too would be just like the common Indians and we have to be different and superior only then can we be professionals. The example of our nemesis Pakistan is often cited as they switched to Pathan Suits and apparently that is the sole reason for their downfall. May be the real worry is when Kurta Pyjamas come in can Dhoti, Mundu-Veshti be far behind?



Kurta Pyjamas are offended naturally, despite their patriotic fervour they are out of favour of the supposedly most committed and dedicated nationalists, the Indian Armed Forces. After all they too are similar to shirts and pants except that the Kurta is not tucked inside and the pyjama is tied with a string, 'nada' and not a leather belt. The whole issue actually is that we are not supposed to be comfortable as the dresses in the mess are Blue Patrol with Pouch Belts and Wellington Shoes with spurs, Ceremonial Dresses where the neck tie keeps the throat asphyxiated and open collar the only dress which has a semblance of comfort is considered a casual and informal attire. Jodhpurs passed muster because the necks there are equally well covered and are almost like a country cousin of Blue Patrol jackets. So naturally how can we suddenly decide to choose such a piece of clothing to be added to the wardrobe, this has to be shunned and the supporters need to be shown their place. One needn't worry our military bureaucracy will find ways and means of converting this too into a ceremonial attire with the complete regalia of a jacket and the exact nature of the buttons, cuffs et al.  All white for the Navy, all black for the Armoured Corps and Combat coloured for the Pongos. While the serving have to be servile about it, so it is left to the veterans to be vocal in their views and they have every reason to be cross. Since they hung their uniforms and banished them in the closet permanently, they are permanently dressed in guess what, the kurta pyjamas and familiarity breeds contempt. They simply can't accept this retrograde step. We had graduated from the KP to western attire when the British came, which was supposed to be a sign of progress. KPs are deemed to be such a strong influence that the Armed Forces are supposed to be politicised by merely choosing this attire.

Be that as it may, it is my firm conviction that the Armed Forces have rightly steered clear of any traces of politicisation over the last 75 years and I am sure the present hierarchy too has been groomed with the same ethos, so this concern of Armed Forces shunning their apolitical character is misplaced. Let us accept this change in the right spirit, wearing Kurta Pyjama  is no cardinal sin which will shunt us out of the Garden of Eden. 



31 comments:

Anonymous said...

Superb take on the Kurta Pyjama story. I visited a foreign country where they take pride in their national dress in mess and wear it in Military precision. We need to move with times.. and have faith in leadership. It take great courage to make such decisions.. yes he is Jaguar pedigree

Anonymous said...

Why not dhoti then

Anonymous said...

Stirring a hornets nest ..you are entitled to your views but to say KP is different from PJs ..I don't agree..different is not for the sake of difference but to a purpose..we were and will always remain elite.

M K Choudhary said...

Suyash, agree with you in totality. In spite of being an OG soldier and very particular about various dresses I feel it’s perfectly fine to adopt the proposed change. It’s just the mindset which is holding majority of us to think this way.
A very bold write up Suyash.

Shiraz Varma said...

From Tongue in cheek, to Attitude in Pyjamas and Swagger in a Kurta, methinks this change is with the times. I'd give about a 2 year period for those chaffing to settle their nerves and scarves.

Anonymous said...

English, Johnny English is what we are, prim n propah..
Daru ,aka somras , nectar of gods nahi bolna, angrezi is what we want in our cut glasses..
English, again english.,we celebrate Hindi only during the Hindi pakhwada, otherwise consigned to the pichwada of the al- maari..
Why am I regaling u with these nuggets??
The faujis , specially the old wool dyed tweedle dee n tweedle dum, in their brogues are shouting sacrilege !
Such a brouhaha..!

@Ramu

Deepak Makhija said...

We must thank we got freedom after British...imagine if we would have got it after Mughals....we would be having Mujrahas in our officers Messes...that said...change is welcome. One is certain that Army will lay down clear guidelines to ensure the elegance is not lost

Anonymous said...

Brilliant Suyash. Like Cdr Tomy, Naval officer of world fame mentioned on X that why this hullabaloo when male officers given this choice-as since independence the lady officers were allowed to wear ethnic dresses! After all it is a choice. An elegantly worn ethnic attire is any day acceptable to the shabby coats which are par for the course now in messes.

Sudhir said...

👍

Anonymous said...

Namaste Suyash,

As always you say every word that needs to be said without filters in a language we all understand and appreciate.

My two Anna bit on this super touchy topic is, it is a great move but as with all change, especially to do with anything the Angrez left behind is strangely sacrilegious even after 75 years of their departure.

If the Dhoti or Mundu is also to come in, with passing of time and assimilation by the system, why not?

We are and should be a dynamic organisation with systems in place for management of change too.

Let’s find our Own ground and enjoy our time in the Officers Mess as it is home to the bachelors and place for all Officers and families to get together and bond.

Jai Hind
Wg Cdr Jaganmohan (Veteran)

Lalit Kumar Bhatia said...

Clean bowled, Suyash.
Mazza Aah Gaya.
Thanks for sharing.
My 2 cents added below.

Yes,yes,yes and another big yes.

We in India are blessed with enormous diversity and a very rich and varied cultures - North, South, East and West. We must flaunt and display it unabashedly, with Immense pride.

Kurta Payjama ➕️Dhoti➕️Mundu➕️ the bold dress codes of various tribes of North East must be worn and displayed in all their splendor. Why keep them only for festive occasions Diwali, Onam,Bihu, Baisakhi etc. Please use them freely in your day to do life.
Another important issue not addressed adequately footwear. What is so sacrosanct about shoes with laces? Am unable to comprehend. We have such fine footwear like Joothies from Punjab and Rajasthan, also the humble yet smart and functional sandals that are so comfortable.They also must be used for yhe simple reason that they are easy to wear and take off in the hot climate of India. Why is the world can't we wear them while dining in our Officer Mess?

➕️ Could give you zillions of other reasons.
We simply need to change our colonial mindset. Period.


Wondering why are the first 3 comments are under the cloak anonymity?
Come on folks,please write your names and take ownership of your views.

Anonymous said...

Welcome the change....exercise your choice

S.K. Dwivedi said...

Kurta pyjama is now common dress for politicians.

Sanjeev Pandit said...

A well written piece, devoured with relish !

GladiatorAdi said...

Come to think of it!
Kurta Pajama/ traditional attire is sought after in most modern weddings also!
So, if those still in services have no issues, why should we worry about this!
If wear what you want to where or feel appropriate!!!

GladiatorAdi said...

Wear what you want to!

Anonymous said...

I tend to disagree with your line of argument Suyash..
There is a different perspective needed that is not a illegitimate offspring of the prevelant oversimplification.
The moot point is that of the necessity of a formal attire, it has little or nothing to do with nationalistic fervour or bouts of jingoistic patriotism, we often have a penchant to succumb to.
I work in a global multinational and we have formal interactions with various nationalities from across continents. Everyone dresses in a lounge suit or formals with a jacket, irrespective of his/her nationality. This bogie of it being a hangover of the Raj needs jettisoning.The Japanese or the Bhutanese too attire in lounge suits or stiff formals on such occasion.
Even for formal dinner or cultural events hosted by embassies guests, with military links, come in Lounge suits or in their national dress(the only recognized one which we have is the bandh gala Jodhpurs with matching trousers).
Linked to this aspect is the need for decorum in messes - read - a certain degree of stiffness or discomfort - which you have alluded to.
The other element ingrained, not only in our Military ethos but even in foreign ones( from US to Russia to Malaysia) is the need for the Military offr to be distinctive.
After all ( Indian military particularly) we are the only ones who have the privilege of carrying our ranks through our entire life.

There is an aspect which you maybe refrained from mentikning. This is the predicament of today's leadership which unhesitantly seems .. comfortable in extending jingoistic arguments to justify the ridiculous .. maybe to tow a line..

You have touched upon another interesting point...
Is it anybody's case really(backed by logic) , that kurta pyjama is the chosen attire to shake off the shackles of colonial hangover? Why not the dhoti or the mundu or the lungi (incidentally more number of people in india wear these 3 than the kurta pyjama)

It's rightly said proverbially.... The Army has not gone to the dogs. ..The dogs have... (no offence meant to dogs) !!!

Anonymous said...

Sorry..forgot to sign off..on the above comment Ravi Hariharan

Rohit Mehrotra said...

In complete agreement with your views put forth in your Blog. We all need to change with changing times.
Very well written. Compliments for handling the much talked about issue of ' permitting of KP in Messes' in such a lucid manner. Keep writing.
👏👏

Surbhi said...

Loved reading this write-up and the debate that follows in the comments. Very eloquent and point on. I particularly do not like picturing our fighters moving around (on & off ground) in any outfit that doesn’t crisply define their aura.

Anonymous said...

There is always something appropriate for a place and occasion
And inappropriate....
Discarding colonialism does not happen by adopting KP, in any case you cannot wish away your history and heritage

Anonymous said...

Very succinctly articulated Sir.

BS Bisht said...

Lot of modifications hv been legislated while wearing kurta pyjama in officer's messes n institutions as per the latest regulations issued by the Indian Navy.Kurta of knee length with band gala and cuffs with buttons.Nehru half jacket.Pyjama with elastic band n a decent width bottom at ankle with closed shoes or leather sandles.
I think this makes a decent dress for the messes n institutions, when worn occassionally.
It is in no way replacing other mess dresses but only an option when the dress code is open collar.
Well written article Suyash.Keep us entertained and aware with your talent in publilishing good articles.
Keep it up buddy.

Anil/ F/70 said...

Very Controversial Topic...Time will tell it's Acceptability and efficacy..till then I reserve My Comments which are contrary in nature, for this Forced Change in Dress Code.

Anonymous said...

Change not because you have to, change because you need to

Anonymous said...

Would be great reminiscence for the Yodas of the past, be it likes of Shivaji or Maharana Pratap...
But for another era ... Like Mahabharat the dress would have to be dhoti kurta or dhoti and angavastram!!
God knows, Armies would just like to be left alone to do their job in the gear of their mandate!
At the same time the services should be magnanimous in letting the invitees and guests dress as per their custom and preferences!!
PawanSang

VM said...

Touchy issue, well articulated sir...
Specs for KP have been laid out. Adds to the ensemble...

Sofie said...

Amen to that!

Sushil Prasad said...

Change is inevitable and as long as the norms of decency are followed, it should be welcome. If the Indian identity is established more firmly with 'kurta pyjama' so be it

What is possibly a point of concern is that as an organization, the Defence Forces are not adopting modern warfare techniques and technologies with a sense of urgency. It's focus needs to be on issues of that kind, everything else is peripheral.

Anonymous said...

Change is the only constant in this universe …… KP is a very comfortable attire, if worn appropriately it should be acceptable.

Moreover lady officers were always permitted to wear ethnic wear, so why not make officers.

While I’m okay with the change, I smell a rat in the proposed change. That it what makes it dangerous

Danny said...

That's another good discussion you've started, Suyash. First off, it's good to remember that kurta-pyjamas are an option, not the dress code. Band-gala coats/ achkans were permitted as 'National Dress' for formal occasions as far as I remember. Semi-formals are the code for most social gatherings, and this is where the new code comes in. Formals for ladies need not mean sarees, and if salwar-kameez is kosher, why not set fire to the party with a matching dress? So here's a point for gender equality, maybe?

My views: Kurta-pyjama is convenient (strings attached), inspires sartorial variety and de-starches the atmosphere, but maybe we could have other ways of making people comfortable. I suspect it will push the pendulum to the other extreme. Then there's an issue with defining national dress in such a culturally rich and diverse nation as ours. If the Brits were to discard the Scottish kilt, their systems would be out of kilter. I love my dhoti or mundu, and it's elegant and convenient and climatically appropriate. Why this and why not that?

There's an internationally standardized and popular dress in the simple shirt and tie. Now, how the necktie has any utility is beyond me, but that's another matter. It sets a level playing field, tie or no tie, and is reasonably resilient to the occasional rough and tumble of a social gathering.

Finally, if it ain't broken, don't try to fix it. Or perhaps it is, by the looks of the dress sense of Gen Next in messes these days?